A home battery on a time-of-use rate: the price gap matters more than the price.
Time-of-use rates are now the default for millions of households, and "charge cheap, use it at peak" is the most common pitch for buying a home battery. This case study puts one battery in the same house on 12 real 2026 utility rates, from San Diego to Detroit, and measures what it actually saves. The answer surprises most people: the utilities with the highest electricity prices are not always where a battery earns the most, and on rate arbitrage alone, none of the 12 rates pays back the battery within its 10-year warranty. Battery Economics has no affiliation with, sponsorship from, or endorsement by Tesla, any battery manufacturer, installer, or utility.
The short answer
The best case recovers about half the cost. Across 12 rates, 10-year bill savings run from $227 (DTE, Michigan) to $7,831 (SCE's TOU-D-PRIME, Southern California), against an installed cost of about $15,650.
A high rate isn't the same as a big payoff. PG&E's popular E-TOU-C plan charges 44¢ at peak but saves just $98 a year, while Con Edison's 28¢ peak (delivery portion only) saves $731. What pays is the gap between peak and off-peak prices, and how many hours and days the peak lasts.
Picking the right rate plan is worth hundreds a year. The same battery saves $503 more per year on PG&E's EV2-A than on E-TOU-C, and $352 more on SCE's TOU-D-PRIME than on TOU-D-4-9PM. Battery owners qualify for both.
The 30% federal tax credit is gone for batteries homeowners buy. The residential clean energy credit ended for expenditures after December 31, 2025, which removes roughly $4,700 of support that 2025 buyers could claim.
$784
Best year-one savings (SCE TOU‑D‑PRIME)
$23
Lowest year-one savings (DTE Time of Day)
≈37¢
Net savings per kWh needed, every day for 10 years, to repay a $15,650 battery
0 of 12
Rates that pay back the battery within its 10-year warranty on rate savings alone
What a time-of-use rate actually pays a battery to do
A time-of-use (TOU) rate charges different prices for electricity depending on when you use it. Most utilities now set a "peak" window of three to five hours in the late afternoon and evening, when the grid is stressed and power is expensive, and charge less the rest of the day. Some add a "super off-peak" window, overnight or at midday when solar output floods the grid, that is cheaper still.
A battery on a TOU rate does one simple job: it fills up when power is cheap and runs the house during the peak window, so the home buys less expensive peak electricity. This is called energy arbitrage, or load shifting. The battery doesn't make electricity; it only moves it in time. And it loses some energy every trip: Tesla's Powerwall 3 is rated at 89% round-trip efficiency, meaning roughly 11 of every 100 kWh bought to charge it never come back out (Tesla Powerwall 3 datasheet).
That gives a simple formula for what each kWh (kilowatt-hour) shifted is worth:
Multiply that by how many kWh the battery can actually push into the peak window, and by how many days a year the peak applies, and you have the annual savings. Every one of those three factors varies enormously by utility, and that's why the same battery produces results that differ by a factor of 30 across the country.
The test house and the battery
To isolate the effect of the rate itself, we hold everything else constant. The same house, same battery, and same installed cost go into every utility territory. Only the tariff changes.
The size of a typical single-battery install (Tesla datasheet)
Installed cost
$15,647 before incentives
EnergySage's 2026 average quote for a 13.5 kWh battery (EnergySage)
Federal tax credit
None
Section 25D ended for expenditures after Dec. 31, 2025 (IRS)
Household load in the peak window
2.0 kW average in summer; 1.4 kW the rest of the year
Caps how much the battery can usefully discharge in a short window
Dispatch
One cycle on each day a peak applies; skipped when losses exceed the price gap
A smart battery won't cycle at a loss
Degradation
Capacity falls about 3% a year, to ~70% at year 10
Consistent with typical 10-year, 70% capacity warranties
Solar, VPP, backup value
Excluded
Tested separately in later case studies; this one isolates the rate
The house is illustrative, not a specific customer. A home with heavier evening air-conditioning or electric-vehicle charging can discharge more into a short peak window; a smaller, efficient home can discharge less.
Where and when the peak hits
The single most overlooked detail in a TOU rate is the shape of the peak window. A battery can only save money during the hours the peak is actually in effect. A three-hour window means a 13.5 kWh battery often can't empty itself into the house before the peak ends, and a peak that applies only on summer weekdays leaves the battery idle most of the year.
Peak windows across 12 rates: length, timing, and cheapest charging hours
The table lists each rate's peak window, the peak price, the cheapest price the battery can charge at, and what the battery saves. Where two prices are shown, the first is summer and the second is the rest of the year.
Con Edison figures are delivery charges only; supply is billed separately at market prices and includes a summer weekday super-peak, so actual savings would likely be higher. Georgia Power prices exclude fuel recovery and taxes. APS, Xcel, and DTE figures are base energy rates before adjustors; percentage-based riders would raise both peak and off-peak prices and modestly increase savings. FPL all-in prices combine the RS-1 first-tier energy, fuel, and clause charges with the RTR-1 on- and off-peak adders. California prices are shown before baseline credits, which apply equally to every hour and don't change the peak/off-peak gap.
Ten-year savings from peak shifting versus the cost of the battery
Swipe to see the full chart →
Savings are undiscounted, before any state rebate, and include capacity fade. At a 5% discount rate, the present value of each figure would be roughly 20–25% lower.
Four things most battery shoppers don't know
1. A high electricity price doesn't mean a battery saves a lot
California has some of the highest electricity prices in the country, yet PG&E's E-TOU-C, one of the most common residential plans in Northern California, ranks second to last. Its summer peak (44¢) is only 12¢ above off-peak (32¢), and in winter the gap shrinks to 3¢ (PG&E). After round-trip losses, cycling the battery on a winter day would actually cost money, so the battery only earns during four summer months.
Con Edison is the opposite. Its delivery charge alone runs 27.9¢ at peak in summer versus 5.2¢ overnight, and its peak lasts from 8 a.m. to midnight (Con Edison). The house uses far more than 13.5 kWh in a 16-hour window, so the battery empties completely every single day of the year. A modest price, applied to a full battery every day, beats a high price applied to part of a battery for part of the year.
2. Short peak windows leave most of the battery unused
NV Energy's southern Nevada TOU plan has the widest price gap in this study: 47.4¢ at peak versus 7.6¢ off-peak, a 40¢ difference (NV Energy). But the peak lasts only three hours, from 6 to 9 p.m., and only June through September; winter is priced flat. In three hours our test house draws about 6 kWh, less than half of what the battery holds. Result: NV Energy earns the most per kWh shifted but still saves only $284 a year. APS in Arizona shows the same pattern with its 4-to-7 p.m. weekday window (APS).
Exporting the leftover charge to the grid doesn't fix this on most rates, because exported power is typically credited at a much lower rate than the peak price a household avoids.
3. Round-trip losses quietly erase small price gaps
Because roughly 11% of the energy is lost on each trip, the peak price has to be at least about 12% higher than the charging price before cycling breaks even. DTE's default 3-to-7 p.m. rate in Michigan charges 24.1¢ at peak in summer and 18.4¢ off-peak; in winter the peak is 20.1¢ (DTE). The summer gap clears the loss hurdle by a hair; the winter gap doesn't clear it at all. The battery earns $23 a year.
4. The rate plan you pick can matter as much as the battery you buy
Several utilities offer plans with bigger price gaps for customers who own a battery, heat pump, or electric vehicle. SCE's TOU-D-PRIME is open to households with residential batteries (SCE), and PG&E says its EV2-A plan is best for customers with battery storage who can charge off-peak (PG&E). Switching plans costs nothing and doesn't change the hardware.
Same battery, same house: default plan versus battery-eligible plan (year-one savings)
Swipe to see the full chart →
Plan eligibility and fixed charges differ; SCE's TOU-D-PRIME has no baseline credit, for example. Check your whole bill, not just battery savings, before switching. Utilities offer free rate comparison tools based on your own usage history.
What it would take to break even
Every rate lands somewhere on a simple trade-off: how much each shifted kWh is worth, and how many kWh the battery can shift in a year. Multiply the two and you get annual savings. The dashed curves show the combinations that would repay a $15,650 battery in 10 and 20 years.
Value per kWh versus kWh shifted: why no rate reaches 10-year payback
Swipe to see the full chart →
Curves include the effect of capacity fade. A battery cycling fully every day of the year would need roughly 37¢ of net savings on every kWh it shifts to repay its cost within the 10-year warranty. The rates that cycle the battery fully almost every day deliver roughly 11–27¢ per kWh; the rates that pay more per kWh (NV Energy, APS) do so on far fewer kWh.
Seen this way, the rates split into two groups. Con Edison, Georgia Power, and the California plans use the whole battery almost every day but earn a moderate amount per kWh. NV Energy and APS earn a lot per kWh but use only a fraction of the battery. To reach 10-year payback, a rate would need both: a wide price gap and a peak window long enough, on enough days, to empty the battery. None of the 12 rates we tested offers that combination today.
Flip the question around: what installed cost would pay back within 10 years on today's best rate? Using SCE's TOU-D-PRIME, the battery would need to cost about $7,800, or roughly $580 per kWh, about half of today's average installed price.
The federal credit changed the math in 2026
Through 2025, homeowners could claim a 30% federal tax credit on a battery through the Residential Clean Energy Credit (Section 25D). The 2025 budget reconciliation law, Public Law 119-21, ended that credit for expenditures made after December 31, 2025 (Congressional Research Service; IRS). On a $15,650 battery, that's about $4,700 in support that 2026 buyers can no longer claim.
Had the credit still applied, the best case in this study (SCE TOU-D-PRIME) would recover about 70% of its net cost in 10 years instead of 50%. That's better, but still short of payback on rate savings alone. The credit mattered, but it was never enough to make arbitrage-only batteries pay off everywhere.
What actually tips the economics
None of this means a home battery is a poor decision. It means a TOU rate, by itself, is rarely the reason a battery pays off. The value stacks that change the answer are:
Charging from rooftop solar. When a battery stores solar power that would otherwise be exported for a low credit, the "charging price" in the formula falls toward the export credit value, which widens the gap significantly under export rules like California's net billing.
Virtual power plant (VPP) payments. Programs that pay battery owners to discharge during grid emergencies can add a separate revenue stream on top of arbitrage.
State and utility incentives. State and utility rebates, where available, can replace part of the lost federal credit.
Backup power. For a household that loses power often, or can't afford to, avoided outage costs can outweigh bill savings. That value is real but personal, so we keep it separate from the bill math.
Heavier evening loads. A home with evening EV charging or electric heat can discharge more into a short window, which helps most on three-hour peak plans.
The upcoming case studies in this series test each of these on top of the TOU baseline established here.
How to use this if you're considering a battery
Find your gap, not your rate. Subtract your off-peak price (divided by 0.89) from your peak price. If the result is under about 10¢, arbitrage will contribute little.
Count your peak hours and days. Hours per day × your household's evening draw tells you how much of the battery you'll actually use. Weekday-only and summer-only peaks cut annual savings sharply.
Ask about battery-eligible rate plans. Where they exist, they're often the single biggest lever you control.
Price the other value streams separately. Solar self-consumption, VPP enrollment, state rebates, and backup needs should each be justified on their own numbers, not folded into an optimistic "savings" figure.
Method. Daily savings = min(battery capacity, peak-window hours × household load) × peak price − that energy ÷ 0.89 × lowest available charging price, counted on each day the peak applies (about 250 weekdays or 365 days a year, prorated by season). Days with a negative value are skipped. For Georgia Power, leftover capacity after the summer peak, and all capacity on non-peak days, is valued at the daytime off-peak price against overnight charging. Capacity fades about 3% a year. Prices are published 2026 energy charges; fixed monthly charges are excluded because they apply whether or not a battery is installed. Results are illustrative estimates, not bill predictions.
Rates change frequently, often more than once a year in California. Verify current prices with your utility before making a decision.
Run the numbers on your own rate.
Your peak window, your price gap, and your household's evening usage decide what a battery saves. Test your ZIP code and rate, then layer in installed cost and incentives.